Vintage Style Files

Posts Tagged ‘designer’

Valentino-The Last Emperor US Premiere

Sunday, October 19th, 2008

Valentino
Mat Tyrnauer's documentary, on Valentino Garavani, the last of the great couturiers, kicked off its US premiere this week at the opening of the 16th Hampton's Film Festival.

Described as "an intimate, engaging, and humorous exploration of one of Italy's most
extravagant icons. The film, shot in cinéma-vérité, documents the
dramatic, very colorful culmination of Valentino's celebrated career,
tells the story of his extraordinary life and work, and also explores
the larger themes affecting the business of fashion today. At the heart
of the film is the unique relationship between Valentino and his
business partner and companion of 50 years, Giancarlo Giammetti."

Visit here  to read more about this fascinating look into the famous designer's  world of luxury and haute couture.  Plus keep updated for a screening in a city near you! Next showing is at the Chicago Film Festival on October 23.

Valentino retired this year after an illustrious career in the fashion industry that began with studies in Paris and apprenticeships with Jean Desses and Guy Laroche.  His evening wear is noted for its elegance and opulence, inspired by the glamourous gowns worn by Hollywood stars of the 30's and 40's.

He has dressed some of the world's most famous women, including Elizabeth Taylor, Princess Margaret,  Jackie Kennedy, Gwyneth Paltrow, Julia Roberts and Halle Berry, to name just a few.

Valentino-The movie

A Photo Tribute to Yves St Laurent

Tuesday, June 10th, 2008

Though France’s “National treasure” may be gone, he will surely never be forgotten because of his amazing contributions to the fashion world.  One of the most influential designers of our time, Yves St. Laurent began his illustrious career back in the 1950’s working for Christian Dior.  He introduced his first collection , the “Trapeze” line,  just a few days after the untimely death of his esteemed employer and at the very young age of 21 became the head designer of the famed House of Dior.

His designs ended up being too controversial for the conservative Dior house and while St Laurent was on military leave, the man who ran the company installed another designer in his place.  So he struck out on his own, becoming one of the most innovative fashion designers of our time.  He understood the changing times and how much youth was influencing popular culture.  His ideas were very modern, inspired by street styles, beatniks, art and ethnic cultures. He also predicted women would be wearing pants for everyday wear.

He is most noted for his tuxedo “Le smoking” look, upscale versions of pea coats, Russian  inspired,  peasant and gypsy styles, safari jackets, transparent clothing, elaborately decorated evening wear and being the first coutourier to use black models on the runway and to introduce a ready to wear collection, opening his shop and launching his Rive Gauche line in 1966.

In 1983 he was the first living designer to be honored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. A fantastic book was published at the same time, highlighting the exhibition, and I just happen to have a copy.  It is full of interesting facts on Yves St Laurent and the photographs are stunning.  So I thought I would share some of these with you. You can also order a copy here.

Black velvet dress with taffeta ruffles. Fall/winter collection 1977-78.

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Lace evening dress with chiffon and maribou jacket. Spring/summer collection 1980.

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Gold threaded red silk organdy evening dress. Spring/summer collection 1981.

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“Russian” dresses from the Fall/winter collection 1976-77.

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Silk faille cocktail dress designed by YSL for Christian Dior. Fall/winter collection 1959-60.

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Designs in the style of men’s formal wear-

Left to right- Black wool gabardine jumpsuit-spring/summer collection 1975,  Black evening suit with peacoat style jacket-fall/winter collection 1981-82, Pantsuit that was the first evening ensemble created in the style of men’s wear-fall/winter collection 1966-67

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Lame evening dresses. Left- from the fall/winter collection 1980-81, right-fall/winter collection 1978-79

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“Spanish” inspired evening gown with pink gazar cape. Fall/winter collection 1979-80

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For more fabulous images from the collection, see my photo album.

Exotic Tina Leser Sundresses

Wednesday, January 16th, 2008

Cotton print sundresses from the 40s and 50s are my favorite outfits to wear.  I guess living in Florida has something to do with my attraction to these dresses, since I get to wear them almost year round! 

And not too many people designed sundresses better than Tina Leser.  She was the pioneer of playclothes,  being one of the first to design ready to wear sportswear and resortwear for the casual American lifestyle. Her innovative designs were heavily influenced by her global travels,  since she travelled extensively through Europe, Africa and Asia.

She moved to Honoulu in 1935 with her husband, where she opened a boutique to sell her own designs. In the 1940’s she visited New York, bringing with her a playsuit she had designed from Phillipino cotton fabric.  Saks Fifth Avenue ordered 500 after they saw it.  She won a Neiman Marcus and Coty Fashion Award in 1945 and continued designing until 1982. You can read more about her in this great article written by Vintage Fashion Guild member, Lizzie Bramlett.  Another good source of information on Ms. Leser and other  talented mid-twentieth century designers is  "New York Fashion, The Evolution of American Style"  by Caroline Rennolds  Milbank.

I’m fortunate to have two of her amazing sundresses,  as it it pretty rare these days to find any of her clothing from the 40’s and 50’s. The first  is done in a gorgeous bright tomato red batik print.  I love the one shoulder style on the bodice and how she joined the two sections of fabric together with the tasselled tie.  She very often liked making her skirts look sarong like. On this dress yards of fabric were gathered at the left side of the waist, the folds creating an interesting focal point.

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This lovely dress  is definitely influenced by her trip to India, with its exotic print,  metallic trim and sari like draping.

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Both for sale right now at Blue Velvet Vintage .

October Charles Whitaker Clothing and Textile Auction

Thursday, October 18th, 2007

Just got my latest announcement for the next Charles Whitaker auction on October 26 & 27. So, of course,I had to rush to the computer to check out their online catalog . I always enjoy looking at all the beautiful things, even if I can’t bid on most of it!

Beside the  collections  of French, English, Asian and African textiles, 19th century doll collection and Fortuny fabric, there is also a nice selection of designer vintage being auctioned, including clothing and accessories by Hermes, Chanel, Versace, Moschino, Bill Blass, YSL, Pauline Trigere, Scassi , Emilio Pucci and many others.

Here’s just a small sampling of the numerous items that I put on my wish list!

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1. 1962 debuntane ball gown  2. Embroidered lace tea gown from 1905  3. Betsey Johnson Paraphenalia 60s silver mini dress 4. 2 pairs of fab 70s platform shoes 5. Teal Traina 60’s sequined party dress  6. 1940’s beautifully beaded suit  7. 1920s Fortuny Delphos gown  8. 1930’s carnival glass and bakelite purse

And if there’s something you feel you must have, but can’t be in New Hope, Pennsylvania for the auction, you can always fill out one of their absentee bidder forms that are listed on their site.

Fab Retro Bathing Suits from Poppi Swim & Sport

Saturday, July 7th, 2007

Got an email recently recommending a website selling a fabulous retro swimwear line, Poppi Swim and Sport . Since I love 40s and 50s bathing suits, I was anxious to check them out!  I was not disappointed.  Company owner, Pamela Levenson, has designed an adorable line of swimwear in flattering silhouettes with a vintage flair. I love the fact that she makes tops and bottoms that you can mix and match and her tropical prints, of course, are my favorites.

Here’s a sampling from her collection.

Love these boy cut bottoms with drawstring ties to make them higher or lower.

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Cute Hawaiian print tops

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Flattering one piece, boy cut suits

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You’re sure to make a big splash at the beach or poolside in one of these pinup style pretties!

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