Vintage Style Files

Posts Tagged ‘Fashion’

Valentino-The Last Emperor US Premiere

Sunday, October 19th, 2008

Valentino
Mat Tyrnauer's documentary, on Valentino Garavani, the last of the great couturiers, kicked off its US premiere this week at the opening of the 16th Hampton's Film Festival.

Described as "an intimate, engaging, and humorous exploration of one of Italy's most
extravagant icons. The film, shot in cinéma-vérité, documents the
dramatic, very colorful culmination of Valentino's celebrated career,
tells the story of his extraordinary life and work, and also explores
the larger themes affecting the business of fashion today. At the heart
of the film is the unique relationship between Valentino and his
business partner and companion of 50 years, Giancarlo Giammetti."

Visit here  to read more about this fascinating look into the famous designer's  world of luxury and haute couture.  Plus keep updated for a screening in a city near you! Next showing is at the Chicago Film Festival on October 23.

Valentino retired this year after an illustrious career in the fashion industry that began with studies in Paris and apprenticeships with Jean Desses and Guy Laroche.  His evening wear is noted for its elegance and opulence, inspired by the glamourous gowns worn by Hollywood stars of the 30's and 40's.

He has dressed some of the world's most famous women, including Elizabeth Taylor, Princess Margaret,  Jackie Kennedy, Gwyneth Paltrow, Julia Roberts and Halle Berry, to name just a few.

Valentino-The movie

Aerosoles Retro Style Shoes for Fall

Monday, October 6th, 2008

Aerosoles shoes have a reputation for being very comfortable to wear.  And I notice they've been coming out with some fabulous retro looks lately.  Just received their fall catalog in the mail and below are some of my favorites.   You can purchase them online as well.

Slip on wedgies with leopard and zebra accent    $69.00

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Patent leather and suede Mary Janes       $89.00

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Lace up suede oxfords                   $89.00

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Brass studded leather lace up oxfords         $99.00

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Have we become a society of slobs?

Monday, September 29th, 2008

According to a Chicago Sun Times interview with Linda Przybyszewski , associate professor of history at Notre Dame, we have become a society of people who take no pride in our appearance. 

She hates that flip flops, shorts and t-shirts have become the fashion staples of today and is writing a book about it called "Nation of Slobs-How Americans learned and forgot how to dress."  She is also teaching a new course about Americans' poor dress habits.

Her extensive collection of 300 home economics books, dating back to 1918,were used as a reference. These books are guides to clothing ,sewing, design, grooming and budgeting — essentially books about the
"art of life,'' she says.  

Supposedly  our fashion sense has been heading in a downward spiral  since the 1960's and I can't say I disagree.  Although there are definitely appropriate places to wear the myriad of sportswear choices  available today, these ultra casual styles are now seen almost everywhere, including weddings, funerals and job interviews.  It does seem like we're becoming too lazy to put any effort into how we present ourselves, no matter what the occasion.

Like the professor, I agree we could all benefit from being  a bit more conscious of our appearance. I'm really getting tired of seeing jeans that droop down so low that I have to look at undergarments (or worse yet, butt cracks),  t-shirts with obscene sayings that aren't even clever or amusing, clothing so tight and cut so high or low that there is nothing left to the imagination and enough with the sweatpants already! 

At the risk of sounding like some old prude,  I think the sportswear of the 40s, 50s and 60s was much classier than what we see today .   But, even then, it still would not have been considered appropriate attire for more formal occasions. I definitely think it's possible to dress informally without looking slovenly and  it's  just plain laziness to show up at someone's anniversary party looking like you just stepped out of the gym.   Of course, I don't think we should be all stuffy and uptight, but I'm concerned the etiquette pendulum is definitely swinging so far the other way that we're losing our sense of decorum.

How do you feel about our trend toward extremely casual attire for any occasion? Do you agree with the professor that, as a nation, we're in need of a fashion makeover?

Here are some contemporary classic fashion choices from the FashionTribes blog to help you "stand out stylishly in a nation of slobs.

A Photo Tribute to Yves St Laurent

Tuesday, June 10th, 2008

Though France’s “National treasure” may be gone, he will surely never be forgotten because of his amazing contributions to the fashion world.  One of the most influential designers of our time, Yves St. Laurent began his illustrious career back in the 1950’s working for Christian Dior.  He introduced his first collection , the “Trapeze” line,  just a few days after the untimely death of his esteemed employer and at the very young age of 21 became the head designer of the famed House of Dior.

His designs ended up being too controversial for the conservative Dior house and while St Laurent was on military leave, the man who ran the company installed another designer in his place.  So he struck out on his own, becoming one of the most innovative fashion designers of our time.  He understood the changing times and how much youth was influencing popular culture.  His ideas were very modern, inspired by street styles, beatniks, art and ethnic cultures. He also predicted women would be wearing pants for everyday wear.

He is most noted for his tuxedo “Le smoking” look, upscale versions of pea coats, Russian  inspired,  peasant and gypsy styles, safari jackets, transparent clothing, elaborately decorated evening wear and being the first coutourier to use black models on the runway and to introduce a ready to wear collection, opening his shop and launching his Rive Gauche line in 1966.

In 1983 he was the first living designer to be honored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. A fantastic book was published at the same time, highlighting the exhibition, and I just happen to have a copy.  It is full of interesting facts on Yves St Laurent and the photographs are stunning.  So I thought I would share some of these with you. You can also order a copy here.

Black velvet dress with taffeta ruffles. Fall/winter collection 1977-78.

Yves st laurent 1

Lace evening dress with chiffon and maribou jacket. Spring/summer collection 1980.

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Gold threaded red silk organdy evening dress. Spring/summer collection 1981.

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“Russian” dresses from the Fall/winter collection 1976-77.

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Silk faille cocktail dress designed by YSL for Christian Dior. Fall/winter collection 1959-60.

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Designs in the style of men’s formal wear-

Left to right- Black wool gabardine jumpsuit-spring/summer collection 1975,  Black evening suit with peacoat style jacket-fall/winter collection 1981-82, Pantsuit that was the first evening ensemble created in the style of men’s wear-fall/winter collection 1966-67

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Lame evening dresses. Left- from the fall/winter collection 1980-81, right-fall/winter collection 1978-79

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“Spanish” inspired evening gown with pink gazar cape. Fall/winter collection 1979-80

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For more fabulous images from the collection, see my photo album.

What would Audrey Do? Enter the contest to find out!

Monday, May 5th, 2008

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Well, I’ve certainly been neglectful in my blog postings since I was stricken with some hideous respiratory ailment that made my head feel like it was full of cotton for about 10 days.  But before my symptoms had progressed to the point that I couldn’t think straight, I was able to read a great book called "What Would Audrey Do-Lessons for Living with Grace and Style"  It is written by Pamela Keogh who also wrote "Jackie Style",  "Audrey Style" and "Elvis Presley-the Man, the LIfe, the Legend". And now I’m back to tell you, though this book is entertaining and helpful for woman of all ages, it should definitely be required reading for all the young women who think Britney Spears and Paris Hilton are worthy of emulation and/or who aspire to be in  "Girls Gone Wild" video to show everyone how liberated they are.

Not only does the book offer many interesting facts about Audrey Hepburn’s life, it is also a guide that will help you navigate through life situations in the way she would have handled them, with charm, graciousness and class.
The author offers up classic style tips that can easily be applied to modern day fashion, advice on romance, travel, diet, exercise and beauty tips all inspired by the most famous fashion icon of the 20th century.

From the book, here are examples of Audrey’s lessons in loveliness:

*Dating advice from the woman who enjoyed romances with John F. Kennedy, William Holden and Albert Finney

*What made her an icon, and how to apply her style choices to 21st century clothes, makeup and accessories.

*Raising children, trying to raise husbands and making home life balanced in every way.

*How to travel, what to pack and maintaining your cool on the road.

*Long before Angelina and Bono got all the press, Audrey was the first celebrity to use her renown to help others around the world.

*Insight into her rich interior life and the discipline, intelligence and generosity that made her so compelling.

"In an era fraught with selfishness, flamboyance and sensational headlines, Audrey as a role model is precisely what the world needs now."

I couldn’t agree more!

And here’s your chance to get a FREE COPY!

The publishers will be giving away several free copies in an random drawing. To enter the contest, the entrants must send an email that includes their mailing
address to: duttongotham.marketing@us.penguingroup.com and write What Would Audrey Do in the subject line. Contest deadline is May 31, 2008.  Best of luck!

Those Sixties People-Young Vulgarians

Sunday, January 6th, 2008

A while back I found this book called Sixties People at a flea market and I’ve just gotten around to reading it.  It was written in 1990 by Jane and  Michael Stern , who specialize in books about travel and pop culture.  You can find it online from Powell’s Books  for a mere $4.95!   In a most hilarious, entertaining and informative way the Sterns cover several different subcultures of the 60s, my favorite being what they call the "young vulgarians".

In case you’ve never heard of these individuals, they were, according to the Sterns, "the street smart teenagers from hardscrabble neighborhoods such as south Philadelphia and the Bronx."    You see,  the 60s wasn’t just about Gidget, Twiggy, Mary Tyler Moore and peace loving hippies. These tough city kids were personally responsible for the rise in popularity of teased bouffant hairstyles, particularly the beehive, thick black eyeliner a la Elvira,  and makeup that looked like it was applied with a trowel.  For the guys,  Brylcreem was king.  The greasier and higher the pompadour, the better.  And when Dick Clark put these tawdry teens on  American Bandstand ,  it created a new ultra cool urban street style that resonated with youth across America.   No doubt thoroughly horrifying many parents.  But then, isn’t that a teenager’s job?

Youngvulgarian2 A quote from the book describes the style brilliantly. "The look was hoodlum baroque, combining a city tough attitude with formal hairdos as ornate as the chandeliers at the local catering hall. This was a look that was bigger than fashion. It expressed a turgid universe of teenage passion and despair."

No kidding. If I had to fix my hair like that everyday and pack on that much make up I’d be in depair too!

Supposedly there were all kinds of rumors about girls who had rodents and insects populating these towering masses of unwashed tresses.  They also provided great hiding places for switchblades,  blackjacks, brass knuckles and small flasks.  Heck, who needs one of those cumbersome designer handbags when you can stash everything right in your hairdo?

But if, like me, you were just a bit too young to adopt this style the first time around, here are some tips I garnered from the book,  in case you feel the urge to go out looking like the Temptress of Trashiness anytime soon. Maybe next Halloween for example!

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1.Don’t wash your hair for several days.  Set with jumbo pink rollers. Generous use of Aqua Net hairspray is very important,  as is excessive teasing, backcombing then shaping, until the matted tangle resembles a halo of spun sugar. Finish with more hairspray. Sleep sitting up.

2. With a sponge, apply several thick layers of  makeup, preferably using Max Factor Pancake Number 2.  Erase any evidence of lips by first covering with concealer, then apply a coat of dead-white lipstick. Shave off eyebrows.  Then draw in a brow about an inch higher than natural brow with black eyebrow pencil. Use chalk white shadow on eyelids to match the lips. Black liquid liner applied along lash line and black eyebrow pencil along inner rim of bottom lid completes this ghoulishly sexy look. Oh yeah, don’t forget the white pearlescent polish on the nails.

3. Don a sheer white nylon "pussycat" blouse over a black bullet bra. Tuck it into a tight black pencil skirt cinched at the waist with a wide black belt.  Dress the legs with black nylon stockings, preferably with a run in them, and wear pointy toed cuban heeled shoes. Don’t forget to wear an ankle bracelet, under the stockings of course!

 

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4. Other essential pieces of jewelry are necklaces with crosses or lockets with pictures of singers such as Dion or Fabian, boyfriends ID bracelets and dime store bangle bracelets.

5. Top the whole ensemble with a fuzzy mohair cardigan in peach or turquoise blue.  Carry a large leatherette bag filled with extra cans of hairspray, an emergency makeup kit, 45 records to trade with your friends, latest copies of Tiger Beat magazine, dozen pieces of Bazooka bubble gum, tube of Clearasil,  and a lucky rabbit’s foot.

6. Last, but not least, the ultimate symbol of coolness is to display a hickey on your neck to show the world just what a desirable vulgarian babe your really are!

These tough, streetwise chicks loved  the  music of the Shirelles, Shangri-las, Chiffons and Ronettes. Their dramatic songs about unrequited love and eternal tragedy struck a cord deep in their hardcore little hearts.

Their idol was, Jackie the K,   wife of famed disc jockey Murray the K .   With her jet black teased hair and eyeliner to match,  she was the ultimate tough girl role model.

In another post I’ll cover style tips for vulgarian tough guys!

Blue Velvet Vintage-Sneak Previews

Wednesday, January 2nd, 2008

Happy New Year, everyone!  Hope you all had a great holiday season and are ready for some fabulous new vintage oufits for the new year.  I’m sooo excited that dresses are still going to be a big trend in 2008, especially lacey and ruffled feminine looks, bright floral prints and maxi styles.  Of course, all of us vintage loving gals never tire of dresses and looking like a lady, no matter what the current fashion!  We’ll just have more choices this year, as beautiful vintage inspired dresses for spring/summer 08 were all over the runways.

So now that all of the holiday madness is behind us,  I’ve been working fast and furiously photographing tons of pretty vintage dresses that will be perfect for next season.   Here’s a sneak preview of a small sampling of the ladylike lovelies that will be going up on the site shortly. 

Sneakpreview

1. 80′S white tiered lace gown with sequinned bodice

2. 50’s black and white print dress with surplice wrap bodice and cummerbund waistband

3. Early 60’s pouffy pink chiffon party/prom dress with cummerbund waistband

4. 50’s full skirt day dress in a fabulous atomic print with pink piping trim

5.  Pale blue tulle over lavender taffeta strapless 50s gown with lace bodice and satin waistband

6. 70s slinky ribbed knit halter dress with assymetrical Missoni like stripes

7. 70’s spectacular Hanae Mori silk print column dress with sheer printed chiffon kaftan overlay

8. 70’s Ursula of Switzerland print chiffon dress with ruffled neckline

9. 50’s ivory lace full skirted dress with white satin  piping trim and cummerbund waistband

1940’s Fashion Video

Thursday, December 27th, 2007

This is a fun video showcasing 40’s rayon fashions.  The ladies spend the day at "the club" wearing the cutest sundresses and playsuits, then later change into some fabulous evening gowns.  There’s even a great closeup of the coolest pair of black and white wedge sandals that I’ve ever seen.

You’ll also get a kick out of how easily one woman manipulates her boyfriend into giving her an engagement ring. I guess maybe men were more gullible back then!

Glove Love

Sunday, December 2nd, 2007

This season designers have been showcasing gloves as the perfect complement to their 50s and 60s inspired polished ladylike silhouettes.    Not those bulky,
fleece lined things, mind you,  but sleek kidskin leather,
velvet or cashmere ones, that will add instant classic glamour to any outfit.   They look especially smart when worn with cropped, bracelet length sleeves.

Here’s a great example from Anne Klein’s fall/winter collection.

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And here are some images I scanned from a 1959 issue of L’Officiel.   Ladies, we are talking some serious chic-ness here,  with the gloves being an integral part of the overall sophistication of the outfits.  Of course,  I can’t even begin to delve into the fabulous hat styles. That’s a subject for another post!

Dior

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Lanvin-Castillo

1959_suit

Jean Patou

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So if want to rock this ladylike look, then you’ll find plenty of great glove choices online this year.  Present a pair of gloves to a favorite female this holiday season. What used to be a safe, although somewhat boring choice for gift giving, is now considered the ultra chic must have accessory of the year.   Also, authentic gloves from the 50s and 60s can usually be found at vintage clothing boutiques for very reasonable prices.

Here’s a gorgeous pair from Coach  in orange trimmed hot pink leather,  with a cool zippered pocket.  $298.00Coach_gloves

Sleek, black leather zippered gloves from Urban Outfitters   $48.00

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Turquoise cashmere beauties from Nordstrom’s.  Also comes in a bunch of other yummy colors.  $42.00
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Vintage navy kidskin leather gloves from Blue Velvet Vintage   $22.99

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Already suffering from Mad Men withdrawal

Friday, October 19th, 2007

ge.Ok, the season finale of Mad Men  aired last night and I already can’t stand the thought of having to wait until next summer for next season’s episodes. Though I am ecstatic that there will actually be a next season. There are not many television shows I watch. As a matter of fact, beside The Daily Show  and The Colbert Report , Mad Men is the only show that has piqued my interest in years!

Draper
Of course, the fact that it takes place in 1960, and the clothing is drop dead gorgeous, definitely has something to do with its appeal to me.

But that’s just scratching the surface.  The show, based on the personal and business  lives of a bunch of very overprivileged,  egotistical executives at, Sterling Cooper,  a big  Madison Ave ad agency, is a fascinating portrayal of the dark side of what  we usually refer to as "the good old days".

Sexual harrassment and racism are rampant. The secretaries get their bottoms patted on a regular basis, while the morally bankrupt ad execs hang out and drink and smoke all day in their Brooks Brothers suits.  Their desperate suburban housewives stay at home, lying to themselves that life is perfect and their husbands really are spending the night at the office, instead of with their mistresses.  The characters run the gamut from deliciously depraved to sentimentally sweet.   This show easily could have been named "Bad Men".  But it’s so cleverly written, visually mesmerizing and full of darkly comedic moments, that once you start watching, it’s almost impossible not to become hooked.

Heck, it’s worth tuning in just to see  hunky creative director, Don Draper , played by Jon Hamm . Now that is one fine speciman of mid-century manliness! So needless to say, I was quite thrilled when I picked up the fall issue of Classic Style Magazine  and there was a whole article on Mad Men, including some great photos of the  yummy Mr. Hamm.

The article quotes the show’s writer, Matthew Weiner , as saying "sex and power are the driving forces of Mad Men. Sterling Cooper is a testosterone soaked snake pit where women venture at their own risk. Beneath the beautifully polished veneer of good manners, formality and layers of preppy clothing, the atmosphere is seethingly carnal." 

There’s no way I could have said it better!

Madmenladies
And a quote from Jon Hamm about the clothing. "Some of the clothes are pretty uncomfortable. And thank God I’m not one of the women! I feel sorry for them. The undergarments alone that they have to wear fill a trailer truck. But they look gorgeous."

There is also a good bit of interesting information about costume designer, Janie Bryant, and what inspired her choices for the show. For the men, she says she drew inspiration from movies like "The Apartment", "Le Bonne Femme" and "The Man in the Grey Flannel Suit", wanting to evoke images of Cary Grant, Gregory Peck and Tony Curtis.

The ladies, according to Janie, had to be dressed from the inside out, including bullet bras and girdles, which were pretty much mandatory back then. Like your American Express card,  you didn’t leave home with out them.  She looked to the styles of Gracy Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Sohpia Loren and Anne Margaret to capture the unique style of each female character.

All in all, a great article about a great new show.  You can pick up Classic Style magazine at Barnes and Noble bookstores and Mad Men will, thankfully, reappear next summer on the AMC network. Can’t wait to see what mischieveous machinations those bad boys have cooked up for next season!

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