Vintage Style Files

Posts Tagged ‘sportswear’

Ladies Home Journal-June 1945 Summer Fashions

Friday, June 11th, 2010

It’s the merry month of  June and I just happen to have a June 1945 issue of Ladies Home Journal in my possession. So I thought I’d do a few posts featuring some of the content in the magazine so you can see what the trends were  in  fashion, beauty, food and home decor  65 years ago, at a time when World War II was almost, but not quite over.

In 1945 clothing still reflected the rationing of fabrics due to the war effort.    So many styles tended to be on the more conservative side.   But luckily there was no shortage of fabulous accessories to keep women from glamming up their outfits.  There were eyecatching hats, elbow length gloves,  costume jewelry, unique handbags and even hairstyles that incorporated elaborate curls and rolls to spice up your look.

Here is a lovely, understated outfit consisting of a black crepe skirt with a black eyelet peplum blouse. Note the black mesh hat with the spray of daisies trailing down the side designed  by famous milliner,  Lilly Dache.

Model wearing Lilly Dache hat-June 1945

Model wearing Lilly Dache hat-June 1945

The American sportswear industry really took off  in the 1940s due to the fact that designers could no longer depend on Paris for their design inspiration coupled with the fabric rationing and the increasingly casual lifestyle of American women.  All the photos below feature chic, easy care casual  outfits for the summer of ‘45.

These first two photos are of Mrs. Howard Hawks, wife of the famous Hollywood  producer. She’s wearing a  lovely halter dress and a stylish shirtwaist dress. Both in rayon jersey.  Mrs. Hawks ended up being named one of the 10 best dressed women of the year in 1947.  She is also responsible for launching Lauren Bacall’s movie career. Upon seeing her picture on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, she showed her husband who immediately flew Ms. Bacall to Hollywood and cast her opposite Humphrey Bogart in “To Have and Have Not.”   It’s obvious Mrs. Hawks had impeccable taste.

Mrs Howard Hawks wearing a halter dress-1945

Mrs Howard Hawks wearing a halter dress-1945

Mrs Howard Hawks in a striped shirtwaist dress-1945

Mrs Howard Hawks in a striped shirtwaist dress-1945

And for poolside and seaside women often wore playsuits with boy cut shorts or with skirts like the outfit below.  Isn’t this two piece black and white gingham bra top and swim skirt adorable?

Gingham two piece swimsuit-1945

Gingham two piece swimsuit-1945

Novelty prints on cotton and rayon were another way to add interest to sportswear. And with many servicemen coming back from the South Pacific with stories and souveniers,  anything with a tropical or Hawaiian motif became very popular.  Here is actress Ella Raines modelling a halter bra and sarong made from Hollywood pattern #1581.  I would wear this in a heartbeat!

Ella Raines wears tropical print halter top and sarong-1945

Ella Raines wears tropical print halter top and sarong-1945

Stay tuned for beauty 1945 Style!

Have we become a society of slobs?

Monday, September 29th, 2008

According to a Chicago Sun Times interview with Linda Przybyszewski , associate professor of history at Notre Dame, we have become a society of people who take no pride in our appearance. 

She hates that flip flops, shorts and t-shirts have become the fashion staples of today and is writing a book about it called "Nation of Slobs-How Americans learned and forgot how to dress."  She is also teaching a new course about Americans' poor dress habits.

Her extensive collection of 300 home economics books, dating back to 1918,were used as a reference. These books are guides to clothing ,sewing, design, grooming and budgeting — essentially books about the
"art of life,'' she says.  

Supposedly  our fashion sense has been heading in a downward spiral  since the 1960's and I can't say I disagree.  Although there are definitely appropriate places to wear the myriad of sportswear choices  available today, these ultra casual styles are now seen almost everywhere, including weddings, funerals and job interviews.  It does seem like we're becoming too lazy to put any effort into how we present ourselves, no matter what the occasion.

Like the professor, I agree we could all benefit from being  a bit more conscious of our appearance. I'm really getting tired of seeing jeans that droop down so low that I have to look at undergarments (or worse yet, butt cracks),  t-shirts with obscene sayings that aren't even clever or amusing, clothing so tight and cut so high or low that there is nothing left to the imagination and enough with the sweatpants already! 

At the risk of sounding like some old prude,  I think the sportswear of the 40s, 50s and 60s was much classier than what we see today .   But, even then, it still would not have been considered appropriate attire for more formal occasions. I definitely think it's possible to dress informally without looking slovenly and  it's  just plain laziness to show up at someone's anniversary party looking like you just stepped out of the gym.   Of course, I don't think we should be all stuffy and uptight, but I'm concerned the etiquette pendulum is definitely swinging so far the other way that we're losing our sense of decorum.

How do you feel about our trend toward extremely casual attire for any occasion? Do you agree with the professor that, as a nation, we're in need of a fashion makeover?

Here are some contemporary classic fashion choices from the FashionTribes blog to help you "stand out stylishly in a nation of slobs.

Pat Premo-Pioneer of California Style Fashion

Sunday, April 13th, 2008

There’s no doubt that American designers are responsible for introducing the concept of sportswear to the rest of the fashion world.  Back in the post war 1940’s, when our economy was booming and people had more time for leisure activities, a whole new demand for "casual wear" developed. 

Here’s a quote from a 1955 Time magazine article on the new "American look".
"Salads & Mambos. Making clothes with the American Look is no simple
trick. U.S. women, says President Hector Escobosa of San Francisco’s
I. Magnin, "don’t want their sports clothes to look like overalls, but
they want them to act like overalls." While Claire McCardell and other
top designers lead the way, the U.S. fashion industry is now busy
turning out garments to keep up with the fast modern pace—dresses that
are as at home in the front seat of a station wagon as in the back seat
of a Rolls, as comfortable in the vestibule of a motel as in the lobby
of the Waldorf, as fitting for work in the office as for cocktails and
dinner with the boss. Most of all, they must be practical. Sports
clothes must swing as easily on the laundry line as on the golf course,
and evening clothes must be designed as much for tossing a salad as
treading a mambo."

Of course, being the playground of the stars and a resort destination,  California became the center for this fashionable  casual style.  Think of Cole, Lanz, Koret, Louella Barbarino,  Addie Masters and also Pat Premo.

Another quote from Time.
"St. Louis, Chicago and Philadelphia are all important garmentmaking
centers. Around Dallas, some 70 firms are turning out $40 million worth
of women’s clothes a year and selling 35% of their output outside the
Southwest. In California, where designers were once willing to try
anything ("crazy pants" in wild harlequin designs and 6-ft.-round straw
hats) just to get talked about, fashion has come of age. Now 1,200
women’s-apparel manufacturers, including such leaders as Pat Premo,
Rudi Gernreich and Georgia Kay, are grossing $350 million a year, and
selling 60% to 75% of their wares east of the Rockies."

Pat Premo orignally worked for Peggy Hunt in the 1930’s, then started her own line in the 1940’s.  She is known for her  of interesting design details,  unusual fabrics and generous use of horizontal stripes. She believed horizontal stripes were more flattering to a woman’s figure.

Here’s a 1954 ad for one of her beautiful dresses.

Patpremo1954

Courtesy of Amazing Adornments , where there is an amazing collection of vintage fashion ads!

Here are some more examples of her fabulously feminine fashions. The first three are offered on my website.

A brilliant tropical print dress.

Dr1381v1

A blue gingham check with zig zag stripes.

Dr1369v1_2

Floral sateen sheath dress with cut out back.

Pat_premo_back

This lovely Pat Premo sundress is offered at Tasty Vintage .

Patpremopolka1

For more information on the mid-century California apparel industry, Vintage Clothesline has a very informative article.

Exotic Tina Leser Sundresses

Wednesday, January 16th, 2008

Cotton print sundresses from the 40s and 50s are my favorite outfits to wear.  I guess living in Florida has something to do with my attraction to these dresses, since I get to wear them almost year round! 

And not too many people designed sundresses better than Tina Leser.  She was the pioneer of playclothes,  being one of the first to design ready to wear sportswear and resortwear for the casual American lifestyle. Her innovative designs were heavily influenced by her global travels,  since she travelled extensively through Europe, Africa and Asia.

She moved to Honoulu in 1935 with her husband, where she opened a boutique to sell her own designs. In the 1940’s she visited New York, bringing with her a playsuit she had designed from Phillipino cotton fabric.  Saks Fifth Avenue ordered 500 after they saw it.  She won a Neiman Marcus and Coty Fashion Award in 1945 and continued designing until 1982. You can read more about her in this great article written by Vintage Fashion Guild member, Lizzie Bramlett.  Another good source of information on Ms. Leser and other  talented mid-twentieth century designers is  "New York Fashion, The Evolution of American Style"  by Caroline Rennolds  Milbank.

I’m fortunate to have two of her amazing sundresses,  as it it pretty rare these days to find any of her clothing from the 40’s and 50’s. The first  is done in a gorgeous bright tomato red batik print.  I love the one shoulder style on the bodice and how she joined the two sections of fabric together with the tasselled tie.  She very often liked making her skirts look sarong like. On this dress yards of fabric were gathered at the left side of the waist, the folds creating an interesting focal point.

Dr1297v1

This lovely dress  is definitely influenced by her trip to India, with its exotic print,  metallic trim and sari like draping.

Dr1301v9

Dr1301v4

Both for sale right now at Blue Velvet Vintage .

Copyright © 2005-2008 Blue Velvet Vintage  Site Map - Vintage Resources
Site Design by Ryan Design Studio